Best price Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System
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Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System Description
Directed Python Responder 2-way Remote Start System 2 Mini Remote/Transmitters - Directed 4203P.
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Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System Details
- Includes two micro-sized 1-button remotes w
- Long-range Car Finder feature (requires horn connection)
- Long-range 2-way confirmation remote start system
- Can unlock doors with engine running with optional connections
- Perfect for adding remote start to OEM keyless entry
- Item Dimensions: 8 x 6 x 3 inches; 2 pounds
- Brand: Python
- Model: Python Responder One
- Product Type: Electronics
Great Deals Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System. You can Buy Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System In Stock. Best Prices Python 4203P Responder 1 Remote Start System Buy Now Free Shipping !
Customer Reviews
Python Python Responder One Review by Corey H. Perez (Fairbanks (AK)
This remote start was installed in a 93 Toyota P/U, Manual and fuel injected. My vehicle had no special options, such as power locks, windows, installed alarm, etc.
I'm currently stationed in Alaska and a remote start is pretty much a necessity up here. I did some research before purchasing this system and determined that this was a no/low frills unit and would exactly meet my needs. Below are a few things that I would point out to people interested in purchasing and installing this themselves:
This unit will integrate into a vehicle with an existing "factory" alarm. This was determined by the options in the wiring diagram to attach to the existing alarm system.
You will also have the option to have this remote start to "power up" x2 or x3 options. Two are high power options, one of which I attached to the blower motor (as recommended in the instructions), the other high power options they recommended connecting to the rear defroster. If I remember correctly, there was an additional 12v accessory output which wasn't a large wire/high power option. Just don't EXACTLY remember...
Another option that this system includes is automatic lock/unlock of the door locks. My vehicle didn't have that feature so I can't exacly go into depth on the setup and operation.
This system has a sensor that will help to know when to shut the starter down on the vehicle when it has "started". Once I read how this worked I was VERY happy with this purchase and the operation. Many other systems require the system to "read" an iginition source from the vehicle's ignition system. This one takes a prilimary voltage setting "base line". It then initiates the starting sequence, once it reads that there is a higher voltage available when compared to the baseline it shuts down the starting operation. Ultimately, this is reading the battery voltage. When the vehicle "starts" and the alternator is producing charging voltage the system understands that the vehicle MUST be running because of the higher voltage available, and shuts down. AWESOME! My truck, being older sometimes dies after it has started. Combine that to -40* temps we have experienced this week (prior to me writing the review!!) When the remote starter sensed that the voltage dropped back down to the baseline voltage, even AFTER having started (a failed start ultimately), the starting system re-started the truck. The ONLY problem I've experienced was due to my install and the options I then chose. For instance, my truck will sometimes start but not have a high enough RPM to "excite" the alternator to start putting out voltage. I've had the truck experience a "hung starter". I let the truck run its course just to see what would happen, basically so I would know in the future what to expect and to know if I could depend/trust this device to meet my needs in Alaska. Well in the instance of the hung starter the attemt was continued for about 3 seconds and then shutoff. At that point the truck shutoff and the system reset. My truck then started on the second attempt by the device. THis is by NO MEANS a fault of the starting system, just an issue with my truck. The wiring harness did come with an option to connect to the negitive side of the distributor (helps the system to know that the vehicle is running). I had opted not to use this wire. While I had considered re-installing the wire into the wire harness, I decided that my current configuration is probably better suited for my needs. My reasoning for this is if my truck doesn't have the alternator charging and the system continued to run ultimately the battery would be getting discharged. The winters up here are hard enough on our battery and starting systems, so I'll deal with the slight grinding an a very rare ocassion (I've only seen it happen once) and know that when it is running that the battery is also getting charged.
On installing:
By memory, I only used the two 12v input (constant 12v connections) off the power source going to the key
One wire back into the "key on" wire in the vehicle
one wire into the "ignition" wire on the vehicle (initially the truck woudl crank but not run until I found this wire)
One wire grounded*
Neutral safety/automatic safety switch (was actually connected to the same "grounded" location" as the ground wire
Bypassed my "clutch" safety switch. I cut these wires and soldered and taped them. The vehicle always now thinks the clutch is pressed in.
One wire to the 12v positive side of the blower motor system (Environmental control system)
One wire to the 12v positive side of the brake light switch (safety to shut the system down)
One wire to the 12v NEGITIVE side of the light relay out of the steering column. **NOTE! You may need a relay if your system isn't 12v NEG!!!
Small push-button switch - This actually doesn't seem to do anything, that is unless I failed to connect it to the control box. I may check on this later, but it is supposed to keep the vehicle running when pushed the vehicle is running. It didn't seem to work on mine. But as stated, it could be my fault. It is also used for "programming" and making changes to the options.
NOTE!!
There are two wires I "should" have used, but didn't for my existing setup. My vehicle horn doesn't work, so I didn't connect the horn wire and the "hood pin switch". I opted not to install that, but did install the supplied "warning" sticker. This is my vehicle and I'm well aware that there is a remote start on it.
"Installer notes" (if you will).
This is defaulted to running for 12 minutes. Not nearly long enough for the -40 and colder temps here in Alaska. The push button switch I mentioned above is supposed to be an option to changing the programming. My horn not working is part of my problem for changing the programming as you are required to react to horn beeps.
There is a supplied "toggle switch" which I believe to be an "off switch". There were not provided instructions on to where to put this. I believe it would be an interrupt switch to the negitive side of the control system, but opted just not to install it. I may have overlooked this in the instructions, but just stating it like they do the other break out of the wires coming out of the harnesses.
For all the additional wires I didn't need I just "yanked" them out of the harness while it wasn't attached to the control box. This eliminates the "rats nest" of additional wires under the dash.
Take some time!!! Pull out the instruction book and read through what wires will be required for your install. I don't intend for this to sound harsh, but if you can't figure out what you will need, take your vehicle in and have this professionally installed.
I'm pretty good at vehicle wiring and have installed car radios in past when I was younger. I didn't have any issues with installing this, but ONLY did so because this vehicle is old enough and operates off of 12v and 12v only. There are no different voltages on different systems for different readings. There is no way I would have tried this on my 09 GMC Sierra or the wife's 08 Mazda CX9. I previously had a Pontiac Grand Am and the aftermarket installed remote start later had a problem and activated the factory alarm. At that point the vehicle had to be towed to the dealer to identify the problem, back to the installer and have the system removed, and back to the dealer once again to have the security system reset. At that point it was driven back to the installer and a new system was installed.
The instructions CLEARLY state you MUST have a multi-meter, not a test light. I highly, highly recommend you do as suggested. The wiring diagram I had for my vehicle (Chilton/Hayes type manual) was absolutely WRONG with the wire codes and colors. I probably would have blown a fuse while trying to determine what wires I needed since the vehicle manual was wrong.
BITWRITER - Programmer. Many times the manual describes going to a factory installer and having them program your unit to better meet your needs. I haven't done so and I've done a quick search. I've found numerous bitwriters (different ones) for under a hundred dollars. I'm positive that a factory installer will charge about $100 to "program" this. Just buy it yourself and you now can make the changes you need at your desire. (just a suggestion ;) )
In closing:
This device is awesome for my needs. Most all the "remote starting systems" out there are vehicle alarms with a remote starter option added on. This adds a bunch of wires and other problems that we as vehicle owners don't want to deal with. By eliminating the unneeded items, we have a simple and flawless system for starting our vehicles. I highly recommend this unit and firmly believe that it does its job and does it well. I currently can't say for the range of the remote, but I've tried it well inside of military buildings (all brick and metal construction" and when the unit won't start the vehicle it makes a loud noise to let you know that the starting attempt was a "no-go". (Oh, and the LED illuminates either orange or red... I don't remember).
The install is pretty simple, I recommend soldering the connections as recommended, scotch locks were not recommended in the instructions, but I have seen EVERY alarm and remote start installed with these. Use at your own risk.
Take your time and plan it out. Get a factory manual, it may be of help. I believe [...] has an option to download free wiring diagrams (years ago) and they may still be available. Check that source prior to purchase if you're trying to look at ways to trim your total cost.
The remote is pretty small, but still doesn't look or feel flimsy. The key chain hole isn't large enough to add a non-supplied key chain to it, you would have to add it to the provided small key ring.
There is a location for an external LED (I believe), but also a LED on the side of the control box for aid in programming and status. But this is usually hidden under the dash somewhere...
Python Python Responder One Review by C. Winkler
I was looking for a good remote starter that didnt have all the features I didnt need. I dont have an alarm, electric locks or electric windows. I just wanted a starter. I paid $160 and installed it myself. The directions were easy to follow with the included wiring info from the seller. Works like a champ and has great range! Ive been using it for about a month and no complaints.
Python Python Responder One Review by Jjed
Do not buy this auto start unless you intend to have it professionally installed. If you ever run into a snag and need some advice your only option is to find an online forum to use. Calling Directed's customer support will only give you the message, 'We are not allowed to advice consumers on installation procedures'. What kind of customer service is that!?!?! I will never be buying a Directed product again, neither should you.
More Reviews...
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